Friday, February 17, 2012

Chilly in Warsaw and getting a glimpse of the wolf

From Krakow, it was another long and dreary drive towards Warsaw. We got so bored driving, we watched ‘The Blind Side’ while trying to get there. Or at least I did, while CS drove on and on and on. The movie was alright I guess, while I like Sandra Bullock I don’t think she deserved the Oscar for that performance though.

In any case, after driving for what seems like forever, we finally arrived. Luckily for us, the hotel owners waited for us to arrive. The first thing we felt about Warsaw was that it was very different from Krakow, it felt a lot younger, hipper and way cooler. Of course, that could also be because our hotel was located in a more central location than the one in Krakow. This was one of the more interesting rooms we had so far, with a big manga painting which was a bit weird to stare at with the blood splatters artistically strewn across the room.

Cool and weird
Waking up to the smell of fresh pastries
After a good night’s rest, we were eager to explore the city. Unfortunately, there were no walking tours available from any source so we explored the city ourselves instead. We were greeted with chilly winds which put a damper on our spirits. It was super cold, and totally not what we expected weather to be like in May. On top of that, it also started to rain and got rather depressing quickly. We stumbled onto a quirky quaint teahouse and just sat there watching the rain fall and people go by.

Fancy a spot of tea?
We walked around the Old Town but nothing really appealed to us. We popped into the grounds of the Royal Castle but decided we had enough of palaces and castles and gave it a miss. While walking around, we saw 2 girls who were posing for photographs and acting like models. It was quite funny actually, especially since the boy who was taking photographs seemed like he was the boyfriend of one of them and is only doing it to humour his girlfriend.

We did think of going to the Palace of Culture and Science, however it was a bit too far and we were too lazy to make our way there. It was an ex-communist structure erected by Stalin as a "gift from the Soviet Union to Polish nation". You kinda have to see it for yourself to appreciate how massive it is. It actually looks pretty alright and imposing from the outside but we’re not too sure how it looks on the inside since we didn't enter the building. From what we were told, it’s a symbol Stalin putting his finger down on Poland to claim it for communism but unfortunately has no real functional value with badly built interior and design.

Sore thumb of Stalin 
We had an early night in as it was the General Election and I was eager to catch the live update on the results. As we all know by now, Chiam See Tong didn’t retain Potong Pasir (which was a major bummer) and Workers Party took Aljunied, (yeah!), anyway it was all very exciting though I was thousand of miles away and didn’t vote.

The next day, we visited the Warsaw Uprising Museum which was extremely educational, but took us forever to get there. We got a bit lost and ended up walking quite a fair bit before we finally reached the museum, it was totally worth it though. As the name states, the museum is about the Polish movement to liberate Warsaw from Nazi Germany. The operation was planned to coincide with the arrival of the Soviet Union’s Red Army who will provide the Polish with support, however the Soviets never arrived and the Polish were left to fight the German Nazis alone. The museum has a rather good collection of artifacts ranging from weapons used by the insurgents to love letters, which presented a full picture of the people involved. It was quite amazing that even children were involved and you really have to admire their courage in doing so. The museum was rather moving, and definitely a must see if you are in Warsaw.

With that, we left Warsaw and headed towards Gdansk where we would take a ferry to Stockholm for our Scandinavian experience. We spent a night in Olsztyn, whose claim to fame is that it is located near the Wolf’s Lair, Hitler’s eastern command post. It’s best known as the site of a 1944 assassination attempt on Hitler (one of many in fact, but all unsuccessful) and also the basis for the movie Valkyrie (a really horrible movie, by the way). 

We arrived at Gdansk the next day with not much time to spare before our ferry ride, thus we only managed to wander down a street that sold loads of amber jewelry and do lunch. The jewelry was quite pretty but since I’m no gem expert, I thought it was better to stick to buying postcards. We also managed to stumble onto a famous restaurant, Pod Lososiem, though we only knew it was famous after entering the restaurant. Apparently Pope John Paul II hired them to cater his events! It was kind of after lunch hours when we were there so it was rather empty. The food was really good and it was a yummy way to end our trip in Poland.

Wanton soup, anyone?

Beautiful Streets of Gdansk

Monday, February 6, 2012

Understanding the past in Krakow

Krakow was our next stop after Levoca. Getting there was an adventure in itself with snow coming down on us. Imagine, snow in May! Totally freak weather.

When we finally got to Krakow, luckily there was no snow, instead the weather was pleasant and lovely. We did two walking tours in Krakow, one regarding Krakow in general and one specifically about the Jews in Krakow.

The general tour started at St Mary’s Basilica. There is a bugle call every hour from the highest tower and people clap and wave to the guy who blows the bugle. Firemen are rotated in shifts to blow the bugle and apparently it’s quite the honor to get to do so. It was rather interesting, though I was thinking for the people who work there, it must be quite tiring to wave to the guy every hour. The tour took us around the Old Town and up to Wawel Hill where the royal castle, cathedral and royal tombs are.  We didn’t visit any of those though as they weren’t very appealing to us for some reason.

St Mary’s Basilica
For the Jewish tour, we headed to Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter. We watched Schindler’s List before arriving in Krakow so it was interesting for us to hear the guide explain some Jewish traditions, such as the Mezuzah, which Jews affix to the door frames of their house as a constant reminder of God’s presence, as well as the tradition for Jews when they visit a grave, to leave a small stone on the marker as a sign of respect. I must say the Jews in Poland really did have a very sad life. While they did enjoy a long period of stability and prosperity in Poland, everything changed in World War II. It is estimated that 90% (around 3 million) of Jews were annihilated which is frankly quite a shocking number. After the tour, we visited Oskar Schindler’s factory (http://www.krakow-info.com/schindler.htm), which has been converted into a museum about the war time experiences in Krakow under the Nazi occupation. The museum was really informative and I appreciate how the exhibits were displayed to bring about the true horror of what happened.


Memorial for Jews murdered during the liquidation of the Ghetto

The next day, we visited Auschwitz. I think nothing you have ever read or seen can prepare you when you actually visit it. The place had official guides who will be assigned to each group. Everyone has to follow the guide and we are not allowed to wander off by ourselves. Though the place was packed with visitors, it didn’t feel overly crowded. Some of the exhibits got a bit overwhelming and affected me quite a bit. It was a bit like how I felt when I went to the genocide museum in Phnom Penh, there is just this overwhelming feeling of sadness that totally engulfs a person. It is pretty astonishing how the Nazis got away with what they did, though in this day and age it would be pretty hard for someone to do the same.

One thing we realized was that the image of Auschwitz that we see in movies is actually Birkenau, which was even bigger than Auschwitz, and more horrific if that is even possible. Unlike Auschwitz, only the barracks and remains of the gas chambers are in Birkenau, it is however more than enough to convey what happened there. Words are a bit hard to express how we felt there, and all I can say is that you have to go there yourself to understand it.

We have no pictures from Auschwitz. CS felt it wasn't a place to be a tourist and any attempt to show the atrocities that happened there would not be enough. A visit is the only way to pay respect, to see for yourself and ensure nothing like this would ever happen again.

Our visit to Krakow may have ended on a really sad note, however we both really appreciate that we made a trip there.